Cinderella's Advice Column: Tales from the kitchen sink
Or how to manage your kitchen, prep lists, allergens, and mental health.
My favorite thing about being a private chef is definitely the CREATIVITY. Life can get very dull if you’re doing the same thing over and over, so when we find something new or a different way to tweak, it’s a red letter day.
After up and quitting my life as a corporate babe, I went back to school and began staging (interning) for various traiteur (caterer) and private chefs around Paris. Some were wonderful, coaching me on the best ways to prepare panna cotta (from the box, it turns out!), manage 15 dishes at once, and the art of planning ahead. And some were more of a lesson in what not to do (see below on messy kitchens).
It’s an interesting thing, to start over yet again in your mid 30’s. But like Bill Buford, we are never too old to get down and dirty in the kitchen and be yelled at for not knowing how to perfectly sever the oyster from a chicken carcass.
It’s okay, we’ll work on that later.
As a private chef I am very much new on the job, still figuring out my style, schedule, etc., and naturally it changes with each set of guests, kitchen, season, allergies, and general proclivities. This summer I’ve spent the majority of my time in the beautiful Dordogne, the wicker basket of Europe. Did I just make that up? Yes indeed.
Some of the most beautiful produce in France comes from this area… foie gras, magret de canard / duck breast (one can’t have one without the other), strawberries, walnuts, truffles, Rocamadour cheese, the list goes on and on. When you’ve got amazing ingredients, it’s difficult not to create amazing meals.
Each morning I sit in the grand room of the château with my iced coffee and laptop, clacking away at Excel spreadsheets, arranging the menu and grocery planning for the day. Can’t take all of corporate out of the girl- a properly organized grocery list is the stuff dreams are MADE on.
With proper planning comes the abundant agility to be flexible… so although we’ve got a full list of what to purchase, we’re also able to see what the market has today and build from there.
Pre-Prep List, Questions to ask your Host:
Allergies and intolerances of guests
In the EU there are 14 Allergens recognized in the food business. In the USA, the FDA has only categorized 9.
Dislikes, although I will ignore if the majority rule in favor of an ingredient. *
Time of service- this is incredibly important. Some groups enjoy early mealtimes, which are honestly my favorite types of guests. If a specific time is agreed upon, then do your upmost to Stick. To. It. As we’re only human, allow yourself 15 minutes max for wiggle room. It isn’t funny to start a meal 3 hours behind schedule.
Any special requests- do the guests want to try foie gras for the first time?
Budget
Wine pairings
Style of service, will this be family style from the sideboard? Service à la Russe, Francaise, l'Anglaise? (The latter being my least favorite, this needs an EXCELLENT waiter)
*Dislikes are not the same as allergies. Just ask my parents, who had a “cannot leave the table until you take three bites of everything rule.” Did it ever get me to like it? Heavens no. But it did teach me the art of war in a way Sun Tzu never could. Also, basic respect towards your host. There is nothing more insulting than when an invited guest complains that they do not like it, i.e. that ex who complained he wouldn’t eat “wet chicken.” By that, he meant anything in a sauce. Good riddance.
That’s why I love cooking for British people. You know the old saying, English people never care what you do as long as you don’t do it in the street and frighten the horses? The same goes for complaining about the food served. It’s also how I’ve gotten away with some rotten recipes back in the early 2000-teens but bless, they said they loved.
ANYWAY. Back to meal planning.
I’ll mark up a list of the full recipes I plan to make each day, line itemed out with the 14 allergies. Do NOT play around with these, they can literally be the difference between life and death for some, so when in doubt, leave it out. I will then list out the time it takes for each dish, what prep can be done prior, and when the courses will be served.
Mise en Place
This is where you will reign supreme; any deviation, and your kitchen will crumble. Not really, but your mental health certainly will take a toll. Mise en place is literally translated to “putting in place” or “gather.” It is the setup before cooking in any kitchen, professional or home, and will secure not only your mindset but also make your life way easier once you get going.
Examples:
Butcher meat
Par cook items
Chop vegetables
Arrange spices
Gather ingredients on sheet pans
Mise en place is the religion of all good line cooks. —Anthony Bourdain
Some chefs prefer to start and finish each dish in sequential order, but in all honesty, it depends on the kitchen. This particular one I have gotten to know well and have it work for me. Stovetop and oven space are limited but the counter space is plentiful, unlike Parisian kitchens. With that in mind meals are based around what can be prepared when. Sauces, salsas, dressings, cakes, par-cooking, and chopping can all be completed the morning of, while searing, roasting, and obviously plating require last moment before service.
I begin my day at around 9:30am- hit Excel, drop by the market, and get started on lunch and mise en place. All prepped items are then stored in the refrigerator until dinner prep beings at 4:00pm. I love watching the refrigerator go from prepped containers, to empty, to leftovers. It makes my little cindersoot covered heart flutter. Once dessert has been served, I do a little dance, make a little plate, and get to the next big event: cleaning.
I have not mentioned cleaning. I am a stickler for this and want you to listen closely: you cook, you clean.
You cook, you clean.
You cook, you clean.
You COOK, then you CLEAN.
Get it?
All day, every day. Every moment. I clocked it one night… I wiped down the surfaces 29 times during service. Yes, that is with a cleaning agent.
Now this kitchen has a sink that isn’t built for multiple-course cooking, and Cinderella is only one person after all… sometimes, even though it makes her tick, the sink will pile. That’s okay, deep breath. Concentrate, get the food out, THEN clean. Items that can go in the dishwasher go immediately (but after of course wiping the food remnants completely off, or I swear to all that is sacred you will hear me rage), the hand washed are left to dry where they are out of the way.
Once all food is served, the deep cleaning begins. All trays, cutting boards, pots, pans, bowls, etc (so basically everything but the porcelain still on the table) should by this moment already be cleaned and dried but if they’re not, we make quick business of it. The main table is wiped (yet again) to prepare for the hand wash stemware and service items. The compost removed if not already, all surfaces wiped, the dirty towels danced to the laundry, the floor swept and mopped, and your large glass of wine waiting. You did it!
Remember, a dirty kitchen equals dirty food. If you keep an oven that we and Himself know you haven’t cleaned in 3 months, I’m not going to eat the casserole you brought to the potluck, Brenda. Wash your hands, wear gloves if you have a cut, use a clean apron (stains are fine, just be prepared to explain if anyone asks), and as many tea towels as your laundry can take. This isn’t hard, it just takes repetition.
There is so much more to say but I’ve already gone ahead of my story, so let’s get to recipes, shall we?
Menu
L'Entree: Roasted Beets with Goat Cheese, Hazelnuts, and Mint
Plat Principal: Baked Whitefish with Salsa Provençal
La Salade: Roasted Corn & Tomato Salad
Le Dessert: Sicilian Orange Cake
Mise in place in mind, let’s focus on a service that can be easily prepared for your summer fête. All told, all four courses can come together in a matter of an hour (yes, even if you’re cooking for 10+ persons). As I am writing to you from the Mediterranean Sea, we’re going to focus on all things bright, briny, and beautiful.
If I may suggest in what order you could make:
Cake- cakes always taste better after a few hours of the flavors “getting to know each other.” In fact, many professional bakers swear by making them up to two days prior! Make the morning of and set aside- just do your best not to sneak any before you plan on serving. It’s tough, best of luck.
Salsa Provençal- make the evening before, cover, and store in the fridge.
Beets- roast and peel up to two days prior.
Everything else will come together right before serving. Make your life easier, and give yourself more time with your guests!
Play around, have fun. Substitute if/ when you need to, or want to. Cooking is an expression of yourself, be courageous!
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to Anne Stuart Folkes to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.